Awesome line of overhanging left facing dihedrals starting way up left from the Grand Wall.Pitch 1 involves powerful laybacking(12a)past a permanently wet spot(just wipe it off on your pants)and keep cranking until you can rest in an alcove slot just below the 1st set of anchors.Pitch 2 goes up the corner then takes a desperate undercling left(12a) to the bottom of a left facing flared chimney/flake(short pitch to avoid rope drag).Pitch 3 climbs the insecure chimney(11c)to the top of the flake.Pitch 4 goes up the corner,turns a small roof(11a) to the left and leads to a belay tree.Pitch 5 involves some off-width and liebacking leading to a hanging belay.Pitch 6 starts up the corner,traverses left out a flake,then goes back to the corner on a ramp(11b).Pitch 7 goes up right past 2 bolts(10d)and turns a small roof to a good ledge.Pitch 8 climbs up past the 1st 2 bolts of the original aid ladder,makes a commiting(scary)reach move to a flake leading up right(11c)to Dance Platform.If you are still Gung Ho ascend the Roman Chimneys(4 pitches,11d)or traverse off Bellygood ledge.This is one of the finest long free climbs in North America!
Submitted by: gambler on 2004-07-04
Route ID: 54535
with yetanotherdave. left the ground at 8:45 and topped out at 5:30. I got the upper 4 pitches. This climb has been a measuring stick for my aid climbing.
Attempt 1: 1 pitch completed. prussiks used for ascending and hauling. My partner slept upright in a lawn chair. I was crushed widthwise and lengthwise in a camp cot. Bailed the next morning.
Attempt 2: 5 pitches completed. Tried to do it in a day. It was dark when I started the 6th pitch. Our crappy topo had the bolts blurred out so I got way off route and we decided to rap. Partner had a mini epic when he used his boot lace for a prussik and had to cut it off. Back in the parking lot at 2am. We were supposed to meet a friend for beers in Squamish that night. He met us in the parking lot after worrying a lot.
Attempt 3: Success! No hitches. Everything according to plan.