It is in the Gotham City area. Park at the same pull out described. Rather than heading down the talus, walk south (uphill) along the highway for about 200 meters or just beyond where the highway cuts through the rock and you should see a trail that heads down to the right, by the roadside barrier. It is marked with a cairn. Go down the trail to the top of the cliff. Find a set of bolts, can't find the bolts at the top of the cliff eh? Then look behind you by the tree. 3 (or 4) rappels to the right (facing to the river) of the arete will get you to the start of the climb. Better use 2 ropes cause one of the raps is 50 meters (there is an intermediate station on the second pitch so one rope is ok, I'd bring a 60 though). Start the climb from the talus. The route is pretty obvious. 3 pitches (or 4 if you break up the second pitch). There are a few airy moves off of the arete. Beautiful setting. Quite easy for the 5.9 rating. A must do. Note some pitches have 30+ foot runouts on very easy climbing (like 5.5 on a 5.8 pitch)
**Access update** - Due to the highway construction from the last year, the entrance to this climb has changed slightly. Pretty much all the vegitation between the highway and top achor of the climb has been scraped/blown away. For this reason, there is no more trail.
So now to get to the top anchor, walk up (south) the highway from the rest-stop parking. You will walk past a steep gully, which has a hand-rail on the road barrier. Once on the south side of the gully, scramble down the rock slop to the obvious ledge at the edge of the drop-off. Rap off the right side, from the chain anchor. Enjoy!
A map with the route laid out is available in this forum post: http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1329042#Post1329042
Just open the attachment in google maps
Submitted by: bc2planker on 2005-03-04
Last Modified: 2010-05-04
Route ID: 20865
Head a blast on the climb. The view is magnificent and the exposure is super fun but, the rock is pretty crumbly and the climbing is easy enough to make it not too exciting. Feels like a "do the route once and never again unless you are showing someone" route.
Note: To find this route, I've posted direction through google maps in this thread post: http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1329042#Post1329042