The route starts on the left edge of the face (to the right of a long gully) in an obvious, shalow corner/crack system
P1-3. follow the corner and cracks until possible to climb right over small left leaning corners to a good ledge. 5.8 5.9 5.9
P4-6.From the right side of the ledge go up an ow(60m).
Easy climbing rightwards leads to a short crux (10) and a beautiful corner. 5.10+ 5.10 5.9
P7. 4th class leads to the base of Armageddon (a right facing corner)
P8. Start up Armageddon up to the HUGE dike. (this dike goes left to the next corner system that is All Allong the Watchtower). 5.10 60M
P9. Continue left on the dike for a short way until a shallow corner that is climbed on flakes to the base of the great corner. 5.10
P10-13 Climb the obvious (incredible) left facing corner.
5.10+, 5.11, 5.11+, 5.11+
P14. The crux undercling and layback for 4m. Go up a thin crack until possible to reach out right to a small hands crack. 5.12 60m
P15. Corner climbing leads to the end of the dihedrals. 5.11+55m
P16-summit. Climb up the line of least resistance to summit with climbing up to 5.8 for several hundred meters .
4-5 Raps down the east/northeast face leads down to the vowell glacier.
Submitted by: ulysse on 2005-09-26
Route ID: 69756