We appear to be the 2nd ascent of the year from discussions with local guides. Getting this route done when it is not wet is the trick. Good luck with that though. First pitch was fantastic. The traverse slab pitch was an incredible scene as well (except some of the slab was wet). The hard pitch is the 2nd to last technical pitch, it will be wet at least 350 days per year would be my guess. Makes it quite messy and heady. We were getting rain and a bit cold weather, but the East Face of Pigeon draws a lot of that in the late afternoon most days. With Peter S from San Fran. Four stellar routes in five days, best Bugs trip to date for me I guess. What an aesthetic face to climb!
good route up an even better feature. Strongly suggest to take a more difficult variation befor the headwall traversing pitch. The easy gully sucks. Also, if you have time, WAIT until the snow has melted from the top as 5.9 steep grooves is hard enough w/o being soggy wet.