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Sunshine - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
G
11
Double rack to #5 Camalot with 2 extra #4 camalots
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Located on the north face of Snowpatch. One of the best long trad routes on the continent.

Descent Options:

Rap the route. Beware rope eating cracks.

Submitted by: ulysse on 2004-05-24
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 1149
Route ID: 53138

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: canmoron on 2009-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Pitch after pitch of perfect splitters!

See Atkinson/Piche guide for detailed beta. I found pitches 1 and 3 to be easier than the GB says, more like .10- and with short cruxes. You can leave your #5 camalots at the top of pitch 2 and get them on the way down. They are not needed higher up. I recommend belaying just below the crux roof on p7, otherwise the leader could splat on the low-angled slab if they whip. This makes it a 10m pitch but it works best that way. Pitch 8 is probably undergraded at 5.9 in the GB. It's more like 5.10b. There are two gear belays: at the top of p6 and at the top of p10 (small-medium cams/nuts). The rest are fixed bolt anchors that are used for rapping the route. For p10 I would bring four #4 camalots. Kneepads are nice for the p2 OW and also for all the semi-hanging belays.

Added: 2009-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1992-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars With Hal

Great route....classic offwidth, nice overhang pulls.


Added: 2007-11-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cmclean on 2006-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

An excellent climb. The OW could use a #5 and #6 camalot, though there is a chockstone that you can sling and just run it out if you don't want to haul those boats up the route.

Added: 2006-08-08