See Atkinson/Piche guide for detailed beta. I found pitches 1 and 3 to be easier than the GB says, more like .10- and with short cruxes. You can leave your #5 camalots at the top of pitch 2 and get them on the way down. They are not needed higher up. I recommend belaying just below the crux roof on p7, otherwise the leader could splat on the low-angled slab if they whip. This makes it a 10m pitch but it works best that way. Pitch 8 is probably undergraded at 5.9 in the GB. It's more like 5.10b. There are two gear belays: at the top of p6 and at the top of p10 (small-medium cams/nuts). The rest are fixed bolt anchors that are used for rapping the route. For p10 I would bring four #4 camalots. Kneepads are nice for the p2 OW and also for all the semi-hanging belays.