Found on the South end of the West face, Surfs Up is accessed via the Snowpatch/Bugaboo Col.
Pitch 1. Climb/scramble up easy fifth class to a shallow wide ledge. Pitch 2. Stay left of the stacked left facing flakes, climbing the face on small face cracks, through small roofs gaining a sling belay. (5.8) Pitch3. Traverse up and left from the belay to a dihedral. Follow the dihedral though a small roof at its top and build your anchor right of the sling belay. (5.8) Pitch 4. Follow the steepening left facing corner through a crux bulge at its top and pull over blocks into a alcove. (5.9) Pitch 5. Follow a finger corner crack climbing over blocks going to the right out of the alcove. Gain a small sloping ledge, traversing right and down climb to Surfs Up Ledge. (5.7) Pitch 6. Lay back up the obvious 3.5 inch wide flake from Surfs up ledge over blocks and up steep alcoves. (5.9) Pitch 7. Jam your way up the amazing 1 inch splitter crack, though a short chimney to a pedestal belay. (5.8). Pitch 8. Climb the crack furthest to the right (5.7) Traverse the summit ridge to the top of the Kraus-McCarthy Rappel route.
Submitted by: slavetogravity on 2004-08-13
Route ID: 57842
Not a sustained route by any means, but three stellar granite crack pitches above the cool Surfs Up Ledge make it worthy. Easy to get lost on pitch three, why? Because everybody is doing it, therefore rubbing off the moss and lichen making it look like the obvious way (tons of tat left on a chockstone up there, yes we did it too!). So atop pitch 2, next to a huge slung pinnacle, move diagonally right along stacked flakes with tons of lichen on them vs up and left following the worn off corner. The three crack pitches are all equal in how fun they are...the final, even though rated 5.7, is as good as the first two in my opinion. The setting is exceptional out on the ridge/arete. Cheers.