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Becky-Chouinard - popular

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Standard rack to 3.5 camelot(double on mid sise)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Go down the Pigeon-Howser col to East Creek basin. Head west and downhill to the spur that extends from the base of the climb. Climb over boulders and scree (3rd class) until a large split boulder is reached 250m (If it look hard your probably at the base of the climb) P1-3 Go right until a slab is reached,climb up to a small corner that leads to the ridge. Climb the ridge until a very short steep gains cracks on the left had side of the ridge to a big ledge. 5.5 5.5 5.7 P4 Steep cracks leads to a roof (left crack) with enjoyable climbing above leads to a small ledge 5.10- 57m P5 From the belay climb the right side of the ridge to broken ground, traverse to the left side of the crest until possible to go back right to easy ground 5.8 60m P6-7 Head up easy ground to a long left facing corner, climb this to a belay behind a large block in the corner 5th,5.8 80m P8 Continue up the corner for a full pitch 5.8 60m P9 4th and easy 5th class climbing reaches a chimney/gully climb this until it gets steep and belay from the left had side of a small ledge 60m P10 Climb up a crack until possible to climb right on a sloping ledge to a left facing corner to the great bivi ledge 5.9 50m P10 From the left side of the bivi climb up a strenuous corner to a wide crack, climb up until it turns into a left facing corner, after some time climb left to a right facing corner up to a ledge 5.10 55m P11 climb up until possible to traverse right into a large easy crack past solid blocks to a small ledge belay 5.9 60m P12 Climb up the corner until possible to exit on a cracks on the left hand wall to regain the corner above and belay from a small ledge 5.9 50m P13 Follow the corner until it ends (2 pins can be found here on the left hand side of the dihedral) from the pins climb left (or tention) to an easy 5.6 corner. 5.10+ or tention. P14 Keep climbing the corner to a rap station. 5.6 40m...One short rap leads to broken ground. Climb up this broken ground (easy 5th) to summit. 140m 6 Raps down the North East face lead to the glacier

Submitted by: ulysse on 2005-09-15
Views: 3375
Route ID: 55690

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mriley on 2011-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Benighted...

Left camp at the top of Pidgeon-Howser col (not Applebee) at noon, got benighted within reach of the 2 pin belay at the base of pitch 14 i think. Slept on a ledge the size of a kitchen sink...maybe next year we'll start earlier;) Good times!

Added: 2012-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: barwatt on 2012-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Becky-Chouinard

Great route (Tape your hands and beware of lightning storms) Rappeled with one 60 meter rope for descent and had no problems.

Added: 2012-08-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Paul_W on 1983-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars notes on ascent

no comment

Added: 2010-10-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AJones on 1998-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great up, not so great down

Did it in 10 hours bottom to top, but took about the same getting down. Had an epic. Ropes got stuck 3 times; cornice calved almost killed us; long story, but we finally got down. The going up part was fun.


Added: 2010-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bneumann on 2003-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beckey chouinard

Magnificent "white" granite. Great long route. Did it with a fairly inexperienced partner. Would have been more enjoyable with simul-climbing. A true classic.

Added: 2007-12-02

... Read all 13 ascent notes