Go down the Pigeon-Howser col to East Creek basin. Head west and downhill to the spur that extends from the base of the climb. Climb over boulders and scree (3rd class) until a large split boulder is reached 250m (If it look hard your probably at the base of the climb)
P1-3 Go right until a slab is reached,climb up to a small corner that leads to the ridge. Climb the ridge until a very short steep gains cracks on the left had side of the ridge to a big ledge. 5.5 5.5 5.7
P4 Steep cracks leads to a roof (left crack) with enjoyable climbing above leads to a small ledge 5.10- 57m P5 From the belay climb the right side of the ridge to broken ground, traverse to the left side of the crest until possible to go back right to easy ground 5.8 60m P6-7 Head up easy ground to a long left facing corner, climb this to a belay behind a large block in the corner 5th,5.8 80m P8 Continue up the corner for a full pitch 5.8 60m P9 4th and easy 5th class climbing reaches a chimney/gully climb this until it gets steep and belay from the left had side of a small ledge 60m P10 Climb up a crack until possible to climb right on a sloping ledge to a left facing corner to the great bivi ledge 5.9 50m P10 From the left side of the bivi climb up a strenuous corner to a wide crack, climb up until it turns into a left facing corner, after some time climb left to a right facing corner up to a ledge 5.10 55m P11 climb up until possible to traverse right into a large easy crack past solid blocks to a small ledge belay 5.9 60m P12 Climb up the corner until possible to exit on a cracks on the left hand wall to regain the corner above and belay from a small ledge 5.9 50m P13 Follow the corner until it ends (2 pins can be found here on the left hand side of the dihedral) from the pins climb left (or tention) to an easy 5.6 corner. 5.10+ or tention. P14 Keep climbing the corner to a rap station. 5.6 40m...One short rap leads to broken ground. Climb up this broken ground (easy 5th) to summit. 140m 6 Raps down the North East face lead to the glacier
Submitted by: ulysse on 2005-09-15
Route ID: 55690
Left camp at the top of Pidgeon-Howser col (not Applebee) at noon, got benighted within reach of the 2 pin belay at the base of pitch 14 i think. Slept on a ledge the size of a kitchen sink...maybe next year we'll start earlier;) Good times!
Did it in 10 hours bottom to top, but took about the same getting down. Had an epic. Ropes got stuck 3 times; cornice calved almost killed us; long story, but we finally got down. The going up part was fun.