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Into The Sadistic - 5.10b

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5.10b 500m (lll) A sporty route on an impressive alpine wall. Approach as for the South Ridge from the Elk River gravel flats campsite. From the narrow col between Elkhorn & Mt. Colwell, at foot of the South Ridge, traverse on a narrow, exposed ledge to the pocket East Glacier. Start up well protected, parallel cracks (5.10b) on a prominent buttress just left (south) of the East Ridge which bounds the far right side of the glacial cirque. Continue direct up an incredible black chimney/dyke (5.9) with wild exposure and excellent protection. Make an easy 3rd Class traverse left to some run-out face climbing on friable rock. A series of steep aretes and corners follow leading on to the East Ridge right at the notch that has so far barred completion of the East Ridge. Descend gully on climber’s left (Harrison Route) with 5 raps back to glacier. FA: Philip Stone, Greg Shea, 18 September. 1993

Submitted by: giza on 2006-02-13
Views: 480
Route ID: 74309