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Expressway - 5.8 ED1

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad) Snow
alpine rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This a direct start to the cataract arete. Great climbing once on the arete but the lower 600 or so meters are pretty loose. Part of it is in a gully type thing below a large headwall of the cataract arete and collects lots of loose stuff. Most climbing is unprotectable. The crux is a 5.8 traverse that I would rate 5.8 X. You will solo pretty much all of this climb. Protection will be marginal and there is plenty of loose rock.

Descent Options:

Quick along the summit traverse and then down the South Gullies (depending on snow). If there is good snow in the gullies, they can be downclimbed quickly. If not, they are very loose and you will have to come up with another idea.

Submitted by: clc on 2007-08-05
Last Modified: 2007-08-20
Views: 1600
Route ID: 87551

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Jain on 2006-08-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Lots of air!

This was an amazing climb with great views, huge exposure, and a nice knife edge arete. It was hard to find good places for protection at times - we had one bomber piton placement...definitely bring a couple along. A bunch of thumbs up!

Added: 2007-08-27

  Difficulty 5.8 D
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jand on 2007-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Exposure

Very exposed climbing in amazing alpine setting. Soloing up to 5.8 with loose rock several 100 m off the deck. Go if you know what your doing.
We soloed this route in 12 h return trip from Foster Lake bivi.

Added: 2007-08-19