This is a short, easy, not quite vertical sport route that is closely bolted for new leaders to practise. It is just to the right of Easy Crack. Yet It is a shoddy bolt job on all except maybe 2 bolts. Exercise caution until anchor is replaced and bolt problems addressed.
Submitted by: jand on 2006-09-06
Last Modified: 2011-04-26
Route ID: 79500
This was my first lead and conglomerate climb. Lots of good holds, but the really good ones had wasp nests in them. This made it interesting because I was hesitant on putting my hands in anything without being eye level with it. A few of the bolts were loose.
Thought this looked like a fun route in the sun but discovered a few problems. Problem 1- Bolt 3? hanger is not oriented vertically. Problem2 - Bolt 4? placed on a section where the rock has a small fracture and could possibly rip the whole bolt and rock off the wall in a fall. Problem3- last bolt before station was spinner. Problem 5- My biggest concern with the route was the placement of the left anchor bolt. It is right next to a big pocket. It seems Pretty obvious that of all the places to place an anchor bolt that this would be a potential weak spot. I had fun on the route but as always with any route, you do not know the history of the hardware or who put in the route. The hanger problem can be fixed with a wrench, the loose nut can also be tightened as long as this bolt hasn't been overtightened to start with? As far as the anchor is concerned, I would love to see another bolt to back up the shoddy left placement or remove it all together.