Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Jeff Strang, Trevor Prest
This is one of the best lines on the main wall. It is a sustained full 60 m long but can be climbed and rapelled in two 30 m pitches. Makes for a great 60 m pitch though (if you bring enough draws). If you go down the trail towards the far end of the wall, squeeze past a large boulder. The climb starts just past this boulder. Look up and you'll see a corner to the right of some large roofs a ways up. that is the corner you will climb in the last third of the climb. Don't climb this early in the season if there are vultures nesting in the cliffs.
Submitted by: jand on 2006-09-06
Last Modified: 2011-02-14
Route ID: 79501
I wish we would have come to climb this at a different time of the year. Such a great climb! However, on the first pitch I almost stuck my hand into 4 different wasp nests! On the second pitch I got half way before I started hearing strange noises that were getting louder..... turns out the baby vultures weren't too happy having me getting closer to them, so the mother started dive bombing me. I down climbed back to the midway anchor station and rapped off ASAP. The guide book I was using never mentioned nesting birds at this location (Wish I would have come to this website first). I will be back to try again! :)
This route is awesome. A solid, sustained crimpfest that may school harder climbers who might think a 10b is a cakewalk. It is a super enjoyable challenge, with the best views to be had on any south island climb.
Bring your lead head, this route will make you think... a lot. Also bring your crimp fingers, you'll need those too.
PG13 only because everything here is a tad runout for those used to bolts every meter. There are 10 for the first 30...