***As of May 2011 there are some massive blocks which are loosening up just before you begin the big right trending corner. Be aware of this on belay, climb with some long slings to reduce drag, and consider that a helmet is never a bad idea at Sugarloaf.***
45 m up the right side of the second big crack and the far left of the main wall. Belay from the large tree with the crow bar attached to it.
There is now a second pitch to take you to the top. It is very dirty but worth it for the novelty of making the route a two pitch walk-off.
There is also now a set of rings 30m down, above the dirty crack near the third clip of Chocolate Drill. If you swing to the left on rappel, you will see them. The joy of this is that you no longer need to lug in two ropes to climb anything on the left side of Sugarloaf. It just requires a clever swing and a two pitch rap. Stellar, 'aint it?!
Submitted by: ihategrigris on 2005-09-02
Last Modified: 2011-05-10
Route ID: 25579
This route is a five star South Island classic. It really has it all! From semi-crimpy face moves to corner laybacks to sketchy mantals! The route is runout, which is typical for Sugarloaf, but once you are 10 clips up, you stop noticing it.
A marathon of pure climbing enjoyment. All 45m of it!
A second dirty but fun pitch now exists above the anchors. It needs more traffic to be really worthwhile.
Bring two ropes unless you desire to climb the dirty second pitch and walk off the summit! The route is too long for rapping off with one rope.
**Note: I called this 5* rock quality, but this is relative to the rest of victoria, which is one big choss pile. There is one loose flake on the donut. Just avoid tugging it and you'll be fine**