This is a bolted line up the west face of Mt. Finlayson that links fun and prominent features.
Getting there: Exit for Goldstream, drive across bridge and follow road left for approximately 600 meters to an obvious turn around spot just before leaving park boundry. Look for a faint trail at the edge of the turn around heading up the west face of Mt. Finlayson. You can park 30m ahead of the turn around past the no parking sign or park in the Goldstream main parking lot. Follow a steep loose trail for approximately 200m. Look up and left for 30m cliff. Look for pink flagging tape that leads away from the trail to base of climb. Walk a bushy ramp 20m and look for a two bolt station that is the start of the climb.
Pitch 1 (5.10b): Move left from the belay a couple meters and then climb up large flakey rock 4m to a bolt in good rock. Reach high slightly right and above bolt to pocket. Traverse left and go up paying attention to a loose block. Third bolt has chain to make it easier to reach. The crux at the 4th and 5th bolt involves pulling on a small hold to reach a large hold. Follow obvious line to a mossy top out and 2 bolt belay. From the anchors go a few meters through bush and reconnect with trail. Climb 4th class rock step. Approximately 20m above rock step look for a faint trail heading left (might still be marked with pink flagging tape). Follow trail for 20m left and scramble up 30m to start of pitch 2 marked with pink flagging tape. If flagging tape is gone may be difficult to spot first bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.6): During the first ascent this pitch was climbed in the rain in running shoes. First bolt is hard to see. Fun well bolted slab to tree anchor. From tree anchor you can head right and reconnect with trail. Follow trail up and climb 4th class section. Look for a prominent 30m cliff directly above. Follow trail past old tent platform / bivy site staying right. Looked for a bolted corner on right side of the prominent 30m cliff.
Pitch 3 (5.10b): From the trail standing directly below the bolted corner climb easy terrain up loose blocks and slab past 2 bolts. Mantle two steps to an obvious bolted corner that slices prominent 30m cliff. Exiting the corner is fun and a two bolt belay waits just above the lip. From the top of pitch 3 scramble up mossy 3rd class steps for 60 (200ft) meters veering slightly right and look for the first bolt of the next pitch in dark rock on the final headwall.
Pitch 4 (5.4): Climb easy loose terrain looking for 4 bolts to a belay found in cove.
Pitch 5 (5.10a): Head left off the belay. Loose and bit dirty but a super pitch! Has mountain feel. Crux is off the third bolt and the crux will get easier in time as more holds are unveiled from beneath moss. Pay attention to loose rock.
Descent: From the top anchor follow a not so obvious trail to the summit of Mt. Finlayson and descend via the standard hiking trail.
Submitted by: aaronblack on 2011-06-25
Route ID: 109173
If you have considered doing this climb, you should! Such a beautiful area to climb in. The view from this climb is unmatched to anything else you find in Victoria. I would love to see this route get some traffic. The third pitch was fantastic! It is a little loose during the scrambles in between pitches but as long as you are aware and careful you will have no problems!
I can't believe this climb doesn't see more action. Great lines, whoever did the bolting is to be commended. It makes for a fun sport multi pitch adventure just 20 minutes out of town. No horrible runouts to bone breaking falls, all the clipping positions are fantastic, someone went to the trouble of putting in chains to make a mantle shelf a little less exposed and dangerous. Really wonderful place to practice multi pitch technique and get some very fun climbing in as well. Beautiful view, great rock, excellent sense of exposure. I'm baffled as to why this isn't a Victoria classic.
Had a bit of an adventure on the 10b, pulling the block move was a bit burly. Had a little bit of trouble finding the start of the 4th pitch but the topo provided is quite accurate. We took our time and round trip from truck to summit and down the trail back to truck was about 7 hours. Could be done much more quickly by an experienced team.
Whoever bolted this route, my hat is off to you, really fantastic work, thank you.