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North West Ridge - 5.4

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low 5th class 400m (ll) The original route on the mountain and a classic. Start on the crest of the ridge approached from the West Basin by either the north or south-west approaches. Scramble up 4th class ledges and low 5th class rock steps below gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the left (north) side on the Upper glacier then regain the crest over 5th class steps to reach a right trending ledge on the west side which is followed to a boulder field toward the top. The gendarme may also be bypassed on the right (south) side. Great exposure and care with route finding required. Descend same route or West Couloir. FA: A.O. Wheeler et al 1912

Submitted by: giza on 2006-02-13
Views: 465
Route ID: 74306