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Wapiti Valley

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Climbing Sections:

About Wapiti Valley:

This is a majestic area with a great alpine feel and not another soul in sight. Its located in a scenic valley with beautiful views. The climbing is some of the best on Vancouver island, offering moderate multi-pitch sport climbing. Development of the area was started by the titanic efforts of Victoria climber Dave Lepard. Newer route development has been done by a couple of climbers from Nanaimo. More than worth the long drive and approach.
Nearest town or city: Zeballos
Directions: To get to the Wapiti Vally, follow highway 19 north heading towards Port Hardy. You will pass the turn off to Sayward and then Woss. Take a left turn off highway 19 onto the Zeballos road. There are signs on the highway for the turnoff. Once you turn off the highway, follow signs towards Zeballos. At around 32km from the highway, turn left onto the Nomash main. This turn off can be confusing as there are no posted signs. You will know you are getting close when you come down a long hill and you see large piles of rock on the left side of the road. Once on the Nomash main, you will cross a bridge immediately. At the first intersection continue to the left. You will cross another bridge and then turn right, continuing on the Nomash main. A few more kilometers up the road, you will cross over a new bridge that was just put in. After 5km or so, the road becomes very overgrown and seems to just disapear. Keep going even if you think you are going the wrong way! The "car-bush-whacking" seems to go on forever, but you will eventualy come out into a small clearing with a spur road heading up left. This is the N20 spur and is access to the Haihte range and Rugged mountain. Continue past the N20 and over two old bridges. After the second bridge turn right off the Nomash main and onto N35 (Unmarked). You will see a large dirty slab on your left. Continue on "car-bush -whacking" till there is another split in the road. You will see the campsite on the left. Park off the road here and either camp or start walking! This drive can be done in easily in a small 2wd car. To get to the climbing, walk through the campsite and up the old de-activated loging road. This old road switchbacks up into the Wapiti Vally and to the base of the climbs on the south east face of Greyback Peak. The hike takes less than an hour to get to the base of the slab. The trail is getting overgrown but there has been some recent machete work done to clear some of the alders. Just follow the snapped off alders. You will cross many streams and pass by a large boulder with a couple cracks. You will gain good views of the slabs along the way. At the end of the "road" there is a waterfall. The water is fine to drink! From the waterfall, there is a good trail that leads up to a small aproach slab. Head up to a nice ledge refered to as the "stage" The climbs are described from left to right. The first climb you will get to is the "Wapiti Mainline"
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: Free
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Week

Most Recent Photos (See all 21 photos)

No route specified No route specified No route specified No route specified Wapiti Mainline

Forum Discussions (5 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies wapiti valley reidg 5 Jul 26 2010, 12:09 PM
With Replies Summit Register romperroom 1 Jul 06 2007, 10:37 AM
With Replies Mainline pitch 12? romperroom 5 Jul 03 2007, 4:38 PM
With Replies Trail Work romperroom 2 Jul 13 2007, 3:39 PM
With Replies Wapiti Mainline descent? romperroom 6 Aug 15 2006, 11:53 AM