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Peanut Butter Not Jam - 5.11c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
7bolts Chain anchor and 1 belayer anchor bolt
28
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

So we discovered this hidden gem at Nordic Underneath the main wall. I have no idea who set it, but awesome. its about a 10ft roof with a ledge crack running the entire way out. Powerful upside down moves very bouldery. Sick moves love it. Always anchor the belayer. PS I don't know what they named it, so I called it Peanut Butter Not Jam because there isn't really any jamming in the crack. And don't keep the belayer too tight as the go around the roof. If the fall to tight the will swing into the corner. Some of my partners think its 5.11b but they have only red pointed it with draws already placed. so for a clean redpoint from starts I say 5.11C

Descent Options:

Tricky Clean rap with a prusik. Or can clean with a lowering but clean second bolt before third. Second bolt spins just give it a tighten gets a lot of directional forces.

Submitted by: Boulamania on 2013-06-07
Last Modified: 2013-08-05
Views: 448
Route ID: 114021

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Boulamania on 2013-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally Redpointed

Felt way better on this route after another month of climbing but still takes tons of power almost didn't make it, clipped and climbed down to a rest point and shook out after turning the corner

Added: 2013-08-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Boulamania on 2013-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Been a while

Forgot how much power is need for this route.

Added: 2013-06-07