Routes : North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : Mackenzie Mountains : Cirque of the Unclimables : Lotus Flower Tower : Lotus Flower Tower SE Face
Lotus Flower Tower SE Face - 5.10c popular
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
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Tom Frost & crew 1969
Rock (Trad)
PG13
19
Standard rack plus a couple of extra tcu's and small wires
2400
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Description:
Pitch 1. 5.8 Climb up a dirty corner to a bolt belay. Pitch 2. 5.9 Continue up the dirty corner to another anchor. Pitch 3. 5.10a Continue up the dirty corner up to a roof. A crack breaks out on the right hand face under the roof, a short distance of easy climbing reaches the anchor. The first 3 pitches often have fixed ropes since the lower corner is often wet for a couple of days after rain. Pitch 4 5.7 a long 60m pitch of crack and faces reaches a bolt belay near the start of the chimney. Pitch 5-7 5.7 Its better to run extra long pitches for speed and build gear belays. Pitch 8 5.8 Climb out of the chimney and climb up the corner on your right side to reach the bivy ledges. Pitch 9 5.9+ layback the obvious corner until cracks are reached on the face. climb the cracks on very small wires 10b to a bolt belay. Pitch 10-12 5.9 keep on climbing the ski tracks up to a belay under the main roof. Pitch 13 5.10c Climb out right to reach anothe crack, climb the roof and keep on climbing until a belay is reached on the right side. If your up for it, its possible to climb up the original aid line directly up above the belay 5.11+ (bouldery move trough the roof with bad feet). Pitch 14. 5.9 Probably the best pitch on the climb. climb up the long double cracks up to a belay. Pitch 15 5.8 Climb an o/w to a belay. Pitch 16 5.7 climbing leads up to the summit.Descent Options:
Rap, rap, and more raps. Just don't get your rope caught.
Submitted by: ulysse on 2009-05-03
Views: 4146
Route ID: 75362
Most Recent Photos (See all 8 photos)
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4 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Are you kidding me
I was a belay slave for this one, I had never been more than a rope length off the ground on rock before this climb.
It was all a dream, I used to read rock & ice magazine...
Hangin pictures on my wall, only used to think about the tall and tall...
Now I'am gettin me some, livin the life of a climbing bum...
Not really gettin paid, but I'am blowin up man I got it made
It was all a dream, I used to read rock & ice magazine...
Hangin pictures on my wall, only used to think about the tall and tall...
Now I'am gettin me some, livin the life of a climbing bum...
Not really gettin paid, but I'am blowin up man I got it made
Added: 2008-12-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
August 2008
Here are some notes fresh from our ascent ~1 week ago:
Flying in as a party of four will save you money.
The lower part of the route to the bivy ledge is pretty average (dirty and loose), but the upper headwall is immaculate.
The approach takes 1-1.5 hours from Fairy Meadows. The route dries out relatively quickly in good weather, and we were able to free climb right from the bottom.
The first 3 pitches have fixed ropes and are the last pitches to dry out. Of the 8 parties that successfully climbed the LFT during the week I was in there, most failed on their first attempt. Of the failed parties, all used the fixed ropes on their subsequent successful ascent. Most fail because they run out of either time or energy. The first 3 pitches and the upper headwall pitches are very sustained and you can't run up them, despite their moderate grade. Start early, bring lots of food and plan on a very long day. Overall, expect an outing of Scenic Cruise or Steck-Salathe proportions.
Gear: double set of cams to 3" plus a 4" piece, two sets of nuts.
Descent: Many double rope raps. The rap route mostly follows a line to the climber's right of the ascent route. I strongly recommend switching to single rope raps for the bottom 3 pitches, because everyone gets the knot stuck rapping pitch 3.
Flying in as a party of four will save you money.
The lower part of the route to the bivy ledge is pretty average (dirty and loose), but the upper headwall is immaculate.
The approach takes 1-1.5 hours from Fairy Meadows. The route dries out relatively quickly in good weather, and we were able to free climb right from the bottom.
The first 3 pitches have fixed ropes and are the last pitches to dry out. Of the 8 parties that successfully climbed the LFT during the week I was in there, most failed on their first attempt. Of the failed parties, all used the fixed ropes on their subsequent successful ascent. Most fail because they run out of either time or energy. The first 3 pitches and the upper headwall pitches are very sustained and you can't run up them, despite their moderate grade. Start early, bring lots of food and plan on a very long day. Overall, expect an outing of Scenic Cruise or Steck-Salathe proportions.
Gear: double set of cams to 3" plus a 4" piece, two sets of nuts.
Descent: Many double rope raps. The rap route mostly follows a line to the climber's right of the ascent route. I strongly recommend switching to single rope raps for the bottom 3 pitches, because everyone gets the knot stuck rapping pitch 3.
Added: 2008-08-12
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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amazing.
Added: 2007-02-25
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 1999-08-22
