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Nutcracker **** - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Yes. It has been said that this is one of the best 5.8 crack climbs in Ontario. It is. A four-star route that won't be forgotten. Starts 40 metres right of the spring at the prominent crack that goes up-left and slightly overhanging.

Submitted by: yay_chris on 2004-07-15
Views: 1887
Route ID: 55996

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5 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scarpodog on 2010-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars SWEEEEET!!!!!!

it was our first trip to Devils Glen and we arrived on a snow storm to the crag and there was already 5 inch of snow on the ground , the trees, and the top of the lines, it was october 31, and arriving from Toronto it was like grounding to another planet but we didn't care having been climbing for a full winter 3 days a week at Mt. Nemo it has pay off and put some confidence on our harnesses. So we went for the prize, One of the Finest 5.8 pieces of Ontario, ' The Nut Cracker ' a route that follow a beautiful corner crack that curves in to an overhanging crux, my belayer was a bit concerned about the conditions snow was still falling and the line was a bit wet, but to my these were especial conditions, knowing that the first ascenders were hard bold scarpodog climbers that stay on the rock despite of the weather , inspire me. So I went for the Onsight ascent scarpodog style, there under the snow on the wet I juiced every single lieback on de crux enjoying every single smear getting in communion with the elements going trough the fear that I may slip on the wet , but without hesitation on my moves, I toped out with a spidery sensation all over my body to a 6 inch of snow were I start to play on it like a good SCARPODOG. One of the best climbing days of the year .

Added: 2011-01-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: Wrench_Spinners_Inc on 2009-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nutcracker

no comment

Added: 2009-11-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gowser on 2009-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nutcracker

Awesome climb. Go do it! I found the gear to be reallly good and easy to place. Worth the drive out to this crag to climb it!

Added: 2009-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cliffclimber69 on 2008-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great line

found the gear a bit tricky, but that is what ontario limestone is all about

Added: 2008-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: yay_chris on 2004-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

She's pretty.

Added: 2004-07-15