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Routes : North America : Canada : Ontario : Central Ontario : Lions Head

Lions Head

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About Lions Head:

Beautiful limestone sport climbing often considered to be the best in Ontario. But you approach the cliffs from the top so climbing at Lion's Head is a serious undertaking! Climbers should be experienced since most of the climbs require rappeling to a hanging belay above sharp pointy talus. Their difficulty entails being able to climb out or spend the next 2hrs bushwacking across the base. If you don't wish to deal with these issues then try the nearby White's Bluff and TV Tower Crags.

NOTE:Please do not use the tree as anchors as the Cedars are a very touchy specimen in Ontario, many of these trees are over 1000 years old and access can be severely hindered if climbers are found damaging too many trees.

CAMPING: For visiting the Lionshead area you will find a bunch of good info at www.centralbrucepeninsula.ca There are cheaper options than the municipal campground although other than B&B's, it is the closest to Lionshead. The Lakeside Rainbow campground looks to be the cheapest at around $10-12/night but I don't know what it's like. There are a couple of designated camping spots on the Bruce Trail but anywhere else on the Bruce Trail could get you into problems.

ACCESS ISSUES: Access is very sensitive in the Bruce peninsula so please educate yourself with the various crags you visit. Some basic info follows:
*Halfway Dump is temporarily closed until we work out the details for allowing the bouldering there. The Access Committee has been doing a lot of work on this, please don't boulder here and turn it into a permanent ban.
*If visiting White Bluff, Whippowill Rd is private and has no parking, nor at the end of the road. Use the Bruce Trail parking area.
*If visiting Lionhead crag, do not park in front of the cottages. Park in the small parking lot if there is room or opposite the cottages.
*In general respect the cottage owners by being polite, keeping speed along the cottage roads to 40km/h, and turning your radios down.

Nearest town or city: Lions Head
Directions: From the town of Lion's Head, turn East on Moore's Road Untill it is possible to take a fork in the road which follows the white blazes of the Bruce Trail. Parking is now limited to the area at the end of Moore's road. Do not block driveways or park on the side with the cottages.
Latitude, Longitude: 45.00511, -81.23034
Access Issues: Please see above.
Camping: Pay
When to Climb: Summer
Quantity of Climbs: Year
Books: A Sport Climbers guide to Ontario Limestone by Chris Oates and Marc Bracken OR The Escarpment by Marc Bracken Judy Barnes and Chris Oates
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Forum Discussions (6)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman granite_grrl 4 Aug 21, 6:52 AM
With Replies Lion's Head climbing 7/13-7/16 rock_pirate 2 Jul 12, 10:09 AM
With Replies Lion's Head, Ontario climbing omerdimsum 5 Jul 22, 8:45 PM
With Replies Info on Halfway Dump at Lions Head griffix 2 Jun 14, 9:40 AM
With Replies Lion's Head Ontario beta? fredrogers 18 Aug 09, 7:31 PM
No Replies Lions Head - Man Overboard krillen 0 Sep 12, 12:08 PM

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