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Rainy Day Woman - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.14/5 Average Rating : 4.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Chas Yonge, Simon Carr
Rock
G
Moderate Nuts/Cams/Hexes
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Very blocky rock, that overhanges for most of the route. The foot holds at the bottom are EXTREMELY polished. The first half is layback after layback. This route is/was what all 5.9's in the area were judged by. VERY popular route.

Submitted by: krillen on 2006-03-04
Views: 1469
Route ID: 11761

Most Recent Photo

14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dray2009 on 2014-05-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A classic for a reason...

This route is great, and has several storylines (trad): The tricky, committing, and pumpy start (some polish... not that bad), pulling through flakes mid-way, and the very run-out finish. Tempting to sling the big loose block or throw gear behind, but possibly psychological pro. Need your head on straight for this finish.

Added: 2014-05-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: scarpodog on 2010-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars on a rainy day of climbing

Crux mostly at the beginning. I managed to put a metolius TCU #1 at 10 ft from the ground and found a very narrow spot for a .3 BD cam just 1ft higher at the begin of the crux, i was fighting to unlock the moves but it was so polished that my hand just slipped and I fell down, the BD failed but my belayer was paying attention so he took rope the most he can and after having leaned his self back the metolius caught me just a few inches from the ground, (Nice catch Pietro!) after the fall on the next attempt found the trick, past the crux and the rest was just plain fun! I still remember the scary block a the end it looks like it s gonna be detached at any moment, and is huge.

Added: 2011-01-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gowser on 2009-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars rainy day woman

very polished on the bottom!

Added: 2009-05-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: schooch on 2009-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

As stated elsewhere the bottom is very polished.So belayer beware. Look for a tiny open book just big enough for your foot. There's still some texture for a smear.

Added: 2009-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: runner_on on 2007-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Outstanding!

Highly recommended but be VERY careful near the bottom.
Be sure to look around when you reach the top - nice view.

Added: 2007-06-16

... Read all 14 ascent notes