Very blocky rock, that overhanges for most of the route. The foot holds at the bottom are EXTREMELY polished. The first half is layback after layback. This route is/was what all 5.9's in the area were judged by. VERY popular route.
Submitted by: krillen on 2006-03-04
Route ID: 11761
This route is great, and has several storylines (trad): The tricky, committing, and pumpy start (some polish... not that bad), pulling through flakes mid-way, and the very run-out finish. Tempting to sling the big loose block or throw gear behind, but possibly psychological pro. Need your head on straight for this finish.
Crux mostly at the beginning. I managed to put a metolius TCU #1 at 10 ft from the ground and found a very narrow spot for a .3 BD cam just 1ft higher at the begin of the crux, i was fighting to unlock the moves but it was so polished that my hand just slipped and I fell down, the BD failed but my belayer was paying attention so he took rope the most he can and after having leaned his self back the metolius caught me just a few inches from the ground, (Nice catch Pietro!) after the fall on the next attempt found the trick, past the crux and the rest was just plain fun! I still remember the scary block a the end it looks like it s gonna be detached at any moment, and is huge.