An overhanging crack that travles diagonally south to north up the rock into a dark recess (the Abyss) under a samll roof. place a couple pieces, head back out over your right shoulder and around the arette. A little exposure here. Mantle onto the ledge and the rest is easy.
Submitted by: krillen on 2006-03-04
Route ID: 11755
The crux is the start, and potentially an ankle-breaker (or worse) if you should slip. A small nut protects you. This is followed by balanced moves left and up to a pumpy, tricky transition into a layback flake. A hand jam is your friend to aid your transition up into the flakes. Then up to the 'abyss." I've gone to traversing under the roof/block/abyss... there's good gear, and it's an exciting traverse. Protect your second with gear on both ends of the traverse. 5.7ish to the top. After the tricky start, the gear on the rest of the route is great, and a worthy 5.10 on the crag. As with other routes on the crag, may be harder for short people. I consider the route 10b.