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Butterfingers - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock
G
1
Standard Rack; Has fixed anchors
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 3.17/5
  Fun Factor 3.83/5

Description:

Starts at 49. Climb to a ledge and then follow the crack and flake system to the top. Go straight up for an awesome 5.9 finish, or avoid this by traversing left before venturing up (5.7).

Submitted by: yay_chris on 2004-07-27
Views: 1673
Route ID: 56725

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14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rjbonz on 2013-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route, two variations

Starts at marker #49. Ascend the varied terrain up to a crack that sits in a right facing corner. Continue up the incipient crack to the roof. Pull the roof. Fixed wrap station. An alternate 5.6 variation: same start. Ascend the arching left facing corner (is immediately to the right of the right facing corner. The arching crack and right facing corner converge 1/2 way up the route. Traverse left at the incipient crack. Gain the ledge to the left. Ascend to the 2nd ledge and traverse right to the wrap station. Both variations are quite good.

Added: 2013-07-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scarpodog on 2009-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars siiiik!

I finished the 5.9 section very pumped and I just sat there at the end on the ledge, exhausted with the pain in my fore arms and yet, I was feeling like a million spiders running all over my body a great sensation of accomplishment and magic going trough that very moment, this was my first lead on a 5.9 and I did it onsight, I had to wait several minute before I could move my hands and make an anchor.

Added: 2011-01-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: deadpoint on 2008-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Butterfingers

5.7 unless you follow the crack all the way.

Added: 2008-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wishiwasamonkey on 2007-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars nice climb

damn Im bad at finger cracks

Added: 2007-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: morlebeke on 2007-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a few varieties

a couple varieties to the start, middle section has a hand crack on the right, pretty easy, or a finger crack on the left, a bit more challenging. The roof move at the top was the hardest on the climb, so I'd call this a 5.9 regardless of the mid section varieties called out in the guide. didn't nail the sequence and right hand placement at the roof first time, thus the frustrating hang dog designation. my favorite route at nemo (smallish sample size)

Added: 2007-08-13

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