Starts at marker #49. Ascend the varied terrain up to a crack that sits in a right facing corner. Continue up the incipient crack to the roof. Pull the roof. Fixed wrap station. An alternate 5.6 variation: same start. Ascend the arching left facing corner (is immediately to the right of the right facing corner. The arching crack and right facing corner converge 1/2 way up the route. Traverse left at the incipient crack. Gain the ledge to the left. Ascend to the 2nd ledge and traverse right to the wrap station. Both variations are quite good.
I finished the 5.9 section very pumped and I just sat there at the end on the ledge, exhausted with the pain in my fore arms and yet, I was feeling like a million spiders running all over my body a great sensation of accomplishment and magic going trough that very moment, this was my first lead on a 5.9 and I did it onsight, I had to wait several minute before I could move my hands and make an anchor.
a couple varieties to the start, middle section has a hand crack on the right, pretty easy, or a finger crack on the left, a bit more challenging. The roof move at the top was the hardest on the climb, so I'd call this a 5.9 regardless of the mid section varieties called out in the guide. didn't nail the sequence and right hand placement at the roof first time, thus the frustrating hang dog designation. my favorite route at nemo (smallish sample size)