From the walk down descent just north of the Big Gulp area, walk south past the Big Gulp and Camel areas. you will come to Morphine area, which is a very well defined wall with prominent roofs. The left roof is higher than the right roof. In each of these two roof are cracks bisecting them. Between these two roofs is a book fold. Below this book fold is a clean face. There will be a yellow '39.' This is your start. Climb the face to the Morphine Ledge. Pull the crux move and continue up the book fold. The route ends at the top of the book fold on a ledge to the left. On this ledge is a large cedar tree. If you are keen on a 5.10 variation, then go straight up through a small roof crack at the top as a 2nd pictch (or a linked, single pitch). This is an excellent 5.7 route. It has a real 'Seneca' quality to it, so expect technical and committing moves. The protection is excellent throughout. A must do Mt. Nemo trad route!
Submitted by: brews on 2006-08-17
Last Modified: 2013-05-28
Route ID: 37856