Climb loose holds past 2 bolts keeping right after the 1st [safety tip]. Clip a 3rd bolt at the lip of the overhang and gwelp your way over this to a face with a long pull to a jug and anchors. An awfull climb that's only made better with new glue-in ring bolts to bail out on. [5.11c/d]
Submitted by: fiend on 2001-07-26
Route ID: 2008
Glad you enjoyed yourself on the route, thanks for the kind words. I enjoyed putting it up, though I made some bolting mistakes. You did ask why the route gets bashed? I have theory, climbing simply isnít what it used to be. Adventure is no longer appreciated, its all got to be gym safe. As far as the description goes, I have no idea who wrote it and could care a less; the route isnít a classic but its fun if youíre a strong and confident climber. The person who wrote the description obviously didnít have the skill to climb it.
Iíve put bolts in on two other routes at Nemo (one is a FA the other is a FFA). Both have reported the grade and my name incorrectly and it was my desire too see at least my FFA remain un-named but someone took the liberty of applying a jack ass of a name to it. Only in Ontario could you get away with that. Try that at the New and they would crucify you.
Snaze hope you had a great season and hope you have great adventures.
Don't know why the guide slags this climb - it is fun, just has some loose and runout climbing at the bottom. The crux is pumpy and exciting, and the headwall keeps the excitement going to the anchors. Hell, its a lot better than Nicorette!