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Cat's Tail - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
G
1
A standard trad rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Starts in the bottom of the short chasm at mark 35a. Follows the finger crack through the corner and up to a hand crack. Follow the layback section then up through the flakes before working left. Up through the roof to bolted top anchors. The original route ending went left across the face from here, around the corner to an obvious finish. The top anchors were placed to reduce stress on the cedars. Beta follows: Just above ground level a reach move from a small ledge can be protected with a small nut but watch you don't eliminate a handhold. Shorter climbers need to identify small and friction footholds while on the ledge for the moves to the good reach hold. I think a #2.5 friend will fit behind the flakes over half way up the route. Above the flakes there are a couple of ways through the small roof section but I think left is easier. If you choose to top out, you may experience rope drag if you do not set a good ropeline. There are fixed pins on route. Sustained. A four star route.

Descent Options:

Use the fixed anchors, clean, & rap.

Submitted by: darkside on 2007-06-13
Views: 1219
Route ID: 12831

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rjbonz on 2013-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stellar route

The route information is generally correct. At the chasm gain the wall. Step right and ascend the line of weakness to a corner with a fist crack. Ascend the flakes. Once at the roof, traverse left and pull the large flake (5.7 move) to the ledge where the wrap station is. Solid rock. Good protection throughout. It is a sustained, high quality line. One of the best at Nemo.

Added: 2013-07-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cliffclimber69 on 2007-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars stellar

followed this once a year ago. amazing line, good gear with nice rests and bomber jams.

Added: 2007-06-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: ecocliffchick on 2006-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Seconded it, had some trouble at the 'off-hands' crux - 'till I realized I could crimp on the face. Gotta work on climbing cracks!

Added: 2006-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: soulclimbz on 2005-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

wonderful climb. sustained, but be creative and you can find yourself a number of no-hand rests. eg.- under the last roof (knife edge one, off left, just below the anchors) you can throw a left leg over a semi-detached block and both rest and make a placement in the roof (#3 camalot).

Added: 2005-09-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: yay_chris on 2004-08-27 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This climb and Dufte are the undisputed rulers of Mount Nemo.

Added: 2004-08-27

... Read all 8 ascent notes