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10% Real - WI5

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Thin line of ice in a long corner thatís great for steaming and dry pointing off of. Quite a famous climb as Orient Bay climbs go. I believe it has appeared in Climbing as well as Rock and Ice. Another fun fact: If you have a 05/06 copy of Black Diamond's "Ice/Alpinism" catalogue, turn to the second page, thereís a nice picture of Sean Issac climbing this route. Considered the classic "test piece" of the area, itís a solid WI 5. Itís about 75m long and depending on what you want to do can either be two pitches or one long pitch. A 60m rope will work for a single pitch ascent, but itís tight. If you want to break it up into two, use this beta: Pitch 1: (WI5, 50m) Begin in the icy corner and climb continuously technical, brittle ice to a small rock ledge on the right side. Save screws for the belay. Pitch 2: (WI4, 20m) Climb your choice of the ice pillars that drape the vertical wall above. Descent: Rappel Eveil des Sens, which is the climb immediately to the right. Conditions very from year to year. When I climbed the route it was very thin and I ended up dry pointing on the rock fairly often. Defiantly recommend it.

Submitted by: nanceaj on 2006-05-02
Views: 443
Route ID: 76298

1 Ascent Recorded

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Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: nanceaj on 2005-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

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Witnessed by: Erik Kelly
Added: 2005-12-19