Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Gaétan Martineau, Jacques Lamontagne
Free & Aid climb with a mix of hardware required.
P1-2-3 same as Vire du Curé Dallaire - 5.10D. Pitch 4 climb up then traverse right on exposed tree roots (A2). Pitch 5 is the diehedral that lead to the first big roof, then traverses right to a ledge below the crack that splits the first roof (A3). Pitch 5 climbs the 1st roof (A2) and moves left to a spectacular bivy ledge between the 1st and 2nd roof. Pitch 6 climbs the 2nd roof (A3). Another spectacular hanging belay follows. Pitch 7 goes up the evident crack on the headwall and finishes with a pendulum left to a large ledge (A1-2). Pitch 8 meanders up the face/prow on small protection (A4). Pitch 9 is easy aid or 5.10D to the exit.
Committed to summit after 2nd roof. Bushwalk until you reach the main trail to the Virgin Mary (!) statue.
Submitted by: LamontagnedeGatineau on 2008-07-17
Last Modified: 2012-10-17
Route ID: 94819
Should be a classic! Lots of exposure and a magnificient view.
Gaetan and I had much fun on this spectacular route. Not sure of the year we did it though. First tried it the previous winter but failed, mainly because I chickened out on the final push after the 2nd roof. Did a film on this climb with the National Film Board a couple of years later called "Trinity". That added some bolts to the route to make it safer. A4 may be a bit strong with modern equipment. Would love to know if it was climbed since...