Routes : North America : Mexico : Nuevo León : El Potrero Chico : Crescent Moon Buttress : Crescent Moon Buttress

Crescent Moon Buttress - 5.10a

Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)

First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Quick Draws

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	(Not Rated)
Safety Rating	(Not Rated)
Exposure	(Not Rated)
Rock Quality	(Not Rated)
Scenery	(Not Rated)
Fun Factor	(Not Rated)

Description:

6 pitches of mostly moderate, sometimes loose, climbing with one section of 10a. (you can easily french free this section). Follow the directions in Potrero Ed's book. Park just before the gate. Get well off the road as cement trucks rumble by quite often. The Crescent Moon is visible as a big hole in the buttress to the right of the road. Hike up to the foot of the buttress and the line is obvious enough, trending off to the right. Climb the first two pitches to just above the moon and drop back down into the saddle. The next pitch starts off to the left. This is the 10a pitch. (sometimes their are bees here). Step off the saddle to start the pitch. If you can't do the moves, simply clip a runner to the first bolt, stand up in it and clip the next bolt. After that it's easy again. Finish the pitch and eventually get to the top of the detached spire accross from the last two pitches to the summit. Rap down to the saddle, LEAVE YOUR ROPE IN THE ANCHORS. Do not pull your rope at this time. Take out your other rope and lead the next pitch out of the saddle to a belay even with the top of the detached spire. Be sure you bring the two ends of the rap rope up with you and tie them off to the belay accross the void from the spire. Finish the last pitch, rap down to the belay across from the top of the spire and rig your tyrolean. Slide accross to the hanging anchor above the little shrine. If you have more that two in your party someone will have to get back onto the top of the spire. From here pull your tyrolean and rap down to your right if you are facing the anchor. Find the next hanging rap anchor at the same level with the saddle and pull your ropes to here. Do a 60m rappel from here and you will be able to rap past much crappy, steep, choss that you would have to negotiate if you just rapped from the top of the spire, which you can do. Scree surf back around to the beginning of the route to get your shoes, drive back to the potrero and have yourself a SOL.

Submitted by: drewnobi on 2005-11-08
Views: 149
Route ID: 71596

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