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10. The Sick Dimension - 5.14b

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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16 quick draws
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the Hardest climb in Mexico, originally graded 5.14b by First Ascentionist Rodman (Rodney Blakemore), more than 10 key holds broke since he climbed it upping the grade considerably. This route will never be downgraded, it is SOLID 14B now for sure. This is the route directly to the right of the Crawling King Snake. It starts at the 3rd bolt (it's 5.6 up to there) then some 5.13 climbing brings you to the crux V10/11 (where a key hold broke making one single move from V2 to V9), after the crux enjoy the only rest on the route before punching it through the 45 degree overhanging sustained 5.13c to the anchors (don't worry, if you can do the crux, you won't fall here because compared to the crux, this 5.13 section feels more like 5.8). you can fix a rope to the anchor and go for the ride of your life (MASSIVE SWING) from the 1st bolt, but don't let go or you'll be picking cactus spines outta your butt for weeks!

Submitted by: manboy on 2001-08-14
Views: 898
Route ID: 2786