Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Magic Ed & Javier Gonzalez
Sport climbing, no additional protection needed.
Cross the pool complex and head up the scree slope. At the head wall, go right for 50ft. The route follows he obvious left facing dihedral. First pitch is a face climb at 10a; Second pitch follows the corner, 5.9; Third goes up the beautiful hand crack at 10c; Fourth, traverse right to the face and move up on 5.9 face climbing.
Rappel (4 rappels) the route with 1x60m rope or rappel (1 rappel) to the Virgin canyon with 1x60m rope.
Submitted by: namascar on 2007-02-22
Route ID: 83733
This is a very enjoyable new climb. Easy to get to - just take the trail right of the Wonder Wall until you pass under the Suicide Overlook. The climb starts on the face and follows up the tasty looking dihedral. Doable with one 60m rope.
The 5.10c corner was delicious, the crux move is when you move right out of the corner and back onto the face. Both 5.9 pitches are easy, but watch out for loose rock. On the last pitch, you will eventually move right onto the main face - the last 2 bolts on the steep face above are directionals for the rap. The summit is very sharp, you're not likely to be able to sit or take off your shoes unless you like knives in your butt. A fixed line will take you down to the rap station, because you don't want to rap from the top anchor or your rope will run over the sharp stuff. Good idea to bring a prussik or have another type of friction knot available to get you there easily. You can rap into the Virgin Canyon or back over the route with the help of directional bolts or attempts to swing back to the front. You might want to bring a leaver-biner or two for the rap directionals if no one has left one behind. When we climbed it, it was outrageously windy on top - bring a windshirt and don't throw your ropes!