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05 El Curandero - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

85 Ft.

Submitted by: missedyno on 2005-11-21
Views: 591
Route ID: 4197

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cheese grater holds at crux!

Wow, this was a fun climb. I worked this on TR up and then back down to first learn the moves prior to the RP attempt the next day. It can easily be set up from La Pressa immediately to the right of it. Broken hold is the thinnest cold at the crux moves, however it's the next hold I used with the right hand that was painful. It was like pressing the finger tips on the large-holed side of a cheese grater and mixed with the smaller holes poking into the skin. The next left was similarly textured on with an opposing thumb pinch to spread the load/pain. Once you pull through the lower bulge just keep your presence and sort out the slightly technical moves all the way up after a good rest in the large hueco.

Very fun and rewarding send.

Added: 2009-12-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: rmcclmbr on 2009-01-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars easy

2 move wonder at the first crux. The rest is 11a climbing with a second 11c/d crux. CAREFUL! If you blow the second bolt at the first crux, you will break your ankles on the slab. Do it on top rope first if you're not confident on 12's, to get the move dialed, and then it'll be an easy ascent.

Added: 2009-03-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kyber on 2006-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ..

so i had recorded this send under bone factory a couple years ago, they are very similar routes, easy ramp start to a crimpy bulge and then 11 climbing with good rests up to the anchors.

Added: 2007-12-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: climbr_apprntx on 2003-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-05-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: roclimb on 1998-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1998-11-06