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Dope Ninja - 5.10b
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Rock
G
6
20 bolts and 5 long runners required
600
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Description:
This is the first route on the mota wall, it actually starts around the corner, high up on Area 51. It's across the arroyo from the cattle guard. Follow the trail up and take the first right. Scramble up to a landing and look for the bolts. Pitches; 5.7, 5.10, 5.10b, 5.6 (100 foot traverse, you need long runners), 5.9, 5.9. P2 is long, you need 20 draws. P4 is a long traverse with an alpine feel. Although it's bolted, route finding is sometimes tricky. To avoid rope drag use long runners and skip a few clips on the traverse. This climb does the back side of the snot girlz gendarme. There is a nice "lounge at the top of the 5th pitch, a great place to eat lunch if someone is already rapping Snot girlz.Descent Options:
It's best to rap Snot Girlz. Be very careful not to knock loose rock on to the climbers below on the mota wall. YOu are 7 pitches up and no one on the ground can hear "rock" from way up there.
Submitted by: gblauer on 2007-11-13
Views: 274
Route ID: 90526
8 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 8 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
fun
Long runners needed. You can skip bolts too, but using runners is preferred. 70m rope is definitely a must! We rappelled to the end of our rope a couple times...scary shit. tie your knots at the end of the rope!!!!
Added: 2009-03-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
.
loved the 4th pitch terverse
Added: 2008-11-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
.
.
Added: 2008-11-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Mountaineering!
5.10b lead has intimidating first moves. Missed latching a hold and pitched off that one spot. Very fun. Traverse was kind of strange to see, I thought my partner had gone way off route.
Kind of complex rap. Alternative is to rap down Snott Girls, but we weren't familiar with that route and didn't want to miss any rap anchors.
Not sure if you can link pitches on this one. Kind of long legs. Up in just under 3 hours, rapped down in 1. Just in time to catch our bus back to Austin!! Hopefully improve efficiency next time for some longer stuff!
Kind of complex rap. Alternative is to rap down Snott Girls, but we weren't familiar with that route and didn't want to miss any rap anchors.
Not sure if you can link pitches on this one. Kind of long legs. Up in just under 3 hours, rapped down in 1. Just in time to catch our bus back to Austin!! Hopefully improve efficiency next time for some longer stuff!
Added: 2008-05-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
What a "rope drag"?
Maybe the most enjoyable route I've done. Not a strait up and down climb. Lot's of rope drag. Hard to communicate.
Added: 2008-04-26
