Average Rating : 4.42 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
20 bolts and 5 long runners required
This is the first route on the mota wall, it actually starts around the corner, high up on Area 51. It's across the arroyo from the cattle guard. Follow the trail up and take the first right. Scramble up to a landing and look for the bolts. Pitches; 5.7, 5.10, 5.10b, 5.6 (100 foot traverse, you need long runners), 5.9, 5.9. P2 is long, you need 20 draws. P4 is a long traverse with an alpine feel. Although it's bolted, route finding is sometimes tricky. To avoid rope drag use long runners and skip a few clips on the traverse. This climb does the back side of the snot girlz gendarme. There is a nice "lounge at the top of the 5th pitch, a great place to eat lunch if someone is already rapping Snot girlz.
It's best to rap Snot Girlz. Be very careful not to knock loose rock on to the climbers below on the mota wall. YOu are 7 pitches up and no one on the ground can hear "rock" from way up there.
Or rap down the route a couple of pitches to a garden. W
Submitted by: gblauer on 2007-11-13
Last Modified: 2011-10-04
Route ID: 90526
Windy and really cold. Didn't like this route at all. The crux was weird and really inobvious. The traverse was annoying. Probably would of felt better about it if it wasn't so cold. Felt harder than Snott Girlz
Long runners needed. You can skip bolts too, but using runners is preferred. 70m rope is definitely a must! We rappelled to the end of our rope a couple times...scary shit. tie your knots at the end of the rope!!!!