Treasure of Sierra Madre - 5.10c

lots of good crack to use, pockets too. fun variety.

Don’t skip the first set of anchors on pitch two and stop at the second set. That second set of anchors is a sub-rap anchor for people with 60m ropes. If you skip the first set of anchors and stop at the second set you will be leading the 10c crux right out of the belay station. If you blow the 10c move you will take a nice factor two fall right into the belay station. If you stop at the first set you avoid taking a factor two if you blow the 10c move up higher.

Its best to skip the last two pitches. They are rather boring, extremely sharp and will eat your rope alive. There is shit everywhere for the rope to get hung up on making a reclimb of the last two pitches likely.

Bring four two foot slings (trad draws) for the second 10c crux. The bolts wonder all over the damn place at the beginning and without some slings on them you will yourself experiencing some gnarly drag.

painful tendons, loose rock, dry heaving, running out of water, and complicated repels made this an almost-epic. awesome route though! didnt do last pitch, looked lame and 3rd class-ish.

me and james martin yo-yo'd leads.

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Vonda and I had a great time on this route. I led all pitches. No falls. Very fun route. One of my favorites in the park. Beautiful summit. Well bolted and easy to get down.