Average Rating : 4.45 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (36)
Ramon Ramirez, Club Celo
20 quick draws [ss : ~12 draws first pitch, ~8 on second.]
2 pitches (9, 9+). This two pitch line is the classic on the spires. Climb to the notch between the spires. The second pitch follows the south arete of the chico (western) spire. Make one double rope (50m) rappel down the south face of the chico spire.
[ss - ratings have been upped to 5.10/5.10 in 2002 guidebook. imho 10b/10a, first route for runout and a couple cruxes, second for one exposure move rounding the arete to the south face past 3rd bolt. use LONG draws on first pitch, the route meanders and rope-drag is brutal about the time you get to the 10th bolt. ps : bring a spectra sling]
Submitted by: c-horse on 2008-01-04
Route ID: 2922
This is *the* climb to do in El Portrero, especially if you can get a buddy to photograph you standing on top of the spire..and your buddy is high on one of the other walls. This is NOT too runout....and to the chump calling for retro bolting it? Dude. Take up knitting. If you are so wigged by not seeing a bolt every 6 feet, go back to the gym and give up sport climbing..and god HELP you if you decide you want to do trad. Idiots like that guy need to get out of the sport.
no reason in the world not to put a bolt on that smooth face going over the keyhole. extreme run out, even though the climbing is not that difficult. problem is with 20 feet between bolts on that section it made me doubt where i was going and there is no view of the anchors to pitch one and I had already past the middle mark on the 70 m rope. so unless you've seconded before you'll never know where it is exactly you are going. i jumped over to the anchors on the adjacent 11a and we turned it into a short 3 pitch climb to be safe. come on, someone retro that 20 foot run out.
pitch 2, you still don't know where you are going since you cannot see the anchors on the south side of the spire. it was a little thin in 2 sections, but nice climbing.