The Ayoloco Glacier is harder and more interesting than the Arista del Sol, and climbing up this and down that route makes a good tour of the mountain.
Take the trail that heads out the valley below the main trail up to the Arista del Sol. it'll ascend, then descend into the valley, and then climb up to a small col. Contour along the base of the cliffs until a good gully leads up - there are some cairns at the first obvious place. Traverse a lot more across some gullies until the Ayoloco comes into view. Head straight up the large gully leading to the glacier, and a refugio and campsites are reached at around 15,500'. Expect 4-6 hours of hiking with some route finding from La Joya to get here.
Climb talus and scree right of the glacier until a few hundred feet below the rock cliff, and then make an ascending traverse to the left to the glacier. Lots of scree and some 4th class scrambling depending on snow cover.
The glacier itself is maybe 40 degrees on the left side, and damn near vertical on the right. The middle of the glacier is 45-60 degrees and is the most logical line of ascent. After 600-1000' of glacier climbing depending on the time of year you reach the Arista del Sol route a few hundred feet below the summit of Ixta.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2004-03-09
Route ID: 49836