Starts about 20 ft left of Tainted Love. A difficult start with crimpy holds leads to the roof. Work left and over the roof, then up a sometimes thin crack system to the big ledge at the top. Two newly-installed anchors are in the wall at the back of the ledge.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-11-03
Route ID: 70145
Greasing off the face at the start cost me the redpoint. Pulling the roof was exciting, and the crack system above the roof was balancy, but much better protected than I recalled. A really excellent lead.
Even before you make it to the roof, the start is tough, balancy with thin holds, but once you work your feet up enough to get hold of a solid jug in the roof, it gets easier. The crack above the roof is also a real workout in places. A very stiff 5.9, I look forward to climbing it again.