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Snow &/or ice anchors.
Cross Phelan Creek. Hike up Gulkana Glacier Valley, and head left/west up "dead finger" glacier (prior to 1st ice fall on main glacier) to area below Institute Peak; includes movement on snow-covered glacier. Climb west face up mostly moderate snow/ice to the rock, then scramble to summit.
Retrace route. Could explore ridges either to NE or SE of route. Can also head down main glacier toward top of Gabriel Ice Fall and maybe avoid creek crossing; although involves more snow-covered and heavily crevassed glacier travel.
Submitted by: tpb on 2007-03-25
Route ID: 84108