APPROACH--19 miles from the 2,100 foot Wonder Lake trailhead, cross the McKinley River (sometimes the most dangerous part of the expedition) and continue to the Glacier via Cache Creek and the 5,720 foot McGonagall Pass. Before Wonder Lake Road is plowed free (usually in May), start from Kantishna, 3 miles from the Wonder Lake trailhead.
TOTAL TIME--14-28 days.
VERTICAL GAIN--14,600 feet.
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Travel and camp with careful attention to hanging glaciers which rim Mounts Tatum, Carpe and Koven. Karsten's Ridge has 30 to 40 degree snow and ice.
CAMPS--Avoid the fecal contaminated McGonagall Pass; also be careful of contamination at the Browne's tower camp (14K); you pretty much hafta camp there, but using iodine is probably a wise idea. 5,700; 6,600; 8,100; 9,600; Karsten's Ridge: 11,000, 12,100; 14,900; 16,800 (most try to summit from here).
WISE WORDS FROM Graniteboy--The Muldrow is THE route on the big mountain if you don't wanna share a
camp with 500 other "climbers". A nice 25 mile walk just to get to the
glacier starts things off, then you spend a couple weeks tromping up the
Muldrow, karsten's ridge, and the upper glacier.
Add the full traverse back to Talkeetna instead of
sissying out and catching the plane at kahiltna
International, and you'll be a big kid.