APPROACH--15 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip via Kahiltna Pass, to Peter's Glacier, around the northwest side of the Tluna Icefall, to the 6,000 foot base. Because of recent glacial surges, the Peter's Glacier has dropped several hundred feet, rendering it nearly impassable.
TOTAL TIME--12 to 24 days
VERTICAL GAIN--14,300 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--10 to 45 degree snow and ice climbing with little technical terrain; timing, speed and strategically chosen campsites are crucial factors. The first half of the route is exposed to hanging glaciers and the second half is prone to avalanche and is dangerous after a snowstorm.
CAMPS--7,200 foot area (on or against Jeffery Point ridge); 10,000; 12,500; 15,500; 16,600 (intersection with the Northwest Buttress).