APPROACH--17 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip via Kahiltna Pass, to Peter's Glacier, around the northwest side of the Tluna Icefall, to the 5,400 foot base. Because of recent glacial surges, the Peter's Glacier has dropped several hundred feet, rendering it nearly impassable.
TOTAL TIME--13 to 25 days
VERTICAL GAIN--14,900 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--An acclimatized team on an alpine style ascent-with proper timing, speed and strategically chosen campsites-may minimize inherent avalanche and rockfall danger; start up icefall onto a faint spur which averages 50 degrees, with near vertical steps (5.5 A1); the upper, serac studded wall averages about 30 degrees.
CAMPS--6,900; 8,100; 9,200; 14,500; 16,100; 17,400.