APPROACH--10 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip, via the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to 11,000 feet; move quickly and camp with attention to serac and avalanche activity on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
TOTAL TIME--10 to 24 days
VERTICAL GAIN--9,300 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Despite this routes easier grade, it has many objective dangers. Ramp is avalanche prone and occasionally swept by seracs from 14,000 to 15,000 feet; there may be short snow and ice walls up to 70 degrees getting over bergschrunds; up to 55 degree snow and ice on the East Face Finish (16,000 to 18,960 feet), then a knife-edged ridge.
CAMPS--11,000 (beneath Kahiltna Notch); 12,000; 14,800 (beneath seracs); 15,570 (saddle); 17,800 (East Face).