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1963 Route -

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

APPROACH--2 miles from the 7,600 foot Northwest Fork of the Ruth Glacier landing strip to the 8,300 foot base.

TOTAL TIME--12 to 26 days

VERTICAL GAIN--12,000 feet

DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--The route meanders through seracs and avalanche prone slopes; short sections of up to 80 degree snow and ice up to the 11,000 foot level.

CAMPS--9,000; 11,100; 12,400; 13,700 (bergschrund); 14,100; 17,450 (on the Northeast Ridge). The conditions on this route are changeable over the course of years. In 1977 it was relatively safe (when I climbed it). Ten years later it was much more dangerous with much more hanging ice(when George Bell climbed it).

Submitted by: wdimpfl on 2005-07-20
Views: 553
Route ID: 15773

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dogalot on 1981-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Good route with nobodyon it. Lower half is low angle ice with a bergschrund crux to crest of East Buttress; upper half is easier, through Thayer Basin to Karsten's Ridge..

Added: 1981-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: wdimpfl on 1977-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was probably the most memorable climb of my life.

Added: 1977-07-20