APPROACH--2 miles from the 7,600 foot Northwest Fork of the Ruth Glacier landing strip to the 8,300 foot base.
TOTAL TIME--12 to 26 days
VERTICAL GAIN--12,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--The route meanders through seracs and avalanche prone slopes; short sections of up to 80 degree snow and ice up to the 11,000 foot level.
CAMPS--9,000; 11,100; 12,400; 13,700 (bergschrund); 14,100; 17,450 (on the Northeast Ridge). The conditions on this route are changeable over the course of years. In 1977 it was relatively safe (when I climbed it). Ten years later it was much more dangerous with much more hanging ice(when George Bell climbed it).