APPROACH--11 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip, via the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to 11,000 feet; travel quickly in the East Fork and camp wisely to minimize avalanche danger.
TOTAL TIME--12 to 21 days
VERTICAL GAIN--8,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Approach the face with caution, you will be beneath a HUGE, HANGING GLACIER:::BIG BERTHA! During snowstorms, the bivouacs will be swept with avalanches; sustained snow and ice climbing of 50 to 65 degrees from 12,000 to 16,000 feet, then difficult, mixed rock buttresses (5.7,A2) to the summit ridge.
CAMPS--12,700 (bergschrund); 13,200; 14,000; 15,600 (rock corner); 16,800 (base of buttress).