APPROACH--12 miles from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip via the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to the 12,500 foot bergschrund; travel and camp with attention to numerous hanging glaciers in the Northeast Fork.
TOTAL TIME--20 to 24 days
VERTICAL GAIN--7,800 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Extremely difficult mixed climbing (5.9,A3), with short sections of vertical ice.
CAMPS--The lowwer rock face offers only hanging bivouacs and occasional ledges; level camps at 16,000 and 17,800 feet.