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West Buttress -

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 1.33/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

APPROACH--Start from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna landing strip.

TOTAL TIME--10 to 24 days

VERTICAL GAIN--13,100 feet

DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--There is a 40 to 50 degree snow and ice headwall from 15,000 to 16,000 feet, numerous crevasse falls, altitude sickness and falls from Denali Pass (without axes) which belie the routes easy reputation. This route may be the busiest and easiest, but don't let that lull you into a false sense of security. This is a dangerous, cold, stormy mountain, which can avalanche at any time, and whiteout conditions can occur at a moments notice. See the words of GRANITEBOY at the end of this description.

CAMPS--7,200; 7,600; 8,900; 10,900; 12,900 (in bergschrund to avoid wind and avalanches); 14,300; 16,200; 17,200 (most try to summit from here).

WISE WORDS FROM GRANITEBOY--The Wet Butt Route is the very popular walk to the summit. backpacking with an attitude. They give out unofficial bragging rights for this one, If my memory serves me well (and it does). Pay yer dues B4 you come here, and SAR techs won't have to die trying to keep you alive. Pay yer dues. The guide can't save you, The park can't save you. Only your experience matters. Sharks patrol these waters.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2002-05-15
Views: 1188
Route ID: 12103

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ochsnert on 2008-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Time

Loved it. Great weather, perfect conditions. I think the mountain gave us a little break this year. Well... at least the beginning of June... when we arrived there were 120mph winds at high camp.

Added: 2008-08-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: deadpoint on 2005-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Denali - West Buttress

Denali - West Buttress

Added: 2008-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sethro on 2005-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars coolest view on top

fantastic time.

Added: 2007-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: akicebum on 2005-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Summited in shitty weather.

Witnessed by: Mike Miller, Nick Foster
Added: 2005-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: deadpoint on 2005-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-06-02

... Read all 13 ascent notes