APPROACH--Start from the 7,200 foot Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna landing strip.
TOTAL TIME--10 to 24 days
VERTICAL GAIN--13,100 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--There is a 40 to 50 degree snow and ice headwall from 15,000 to 16,000 feet, numerous crevasse falls, altitude sickness and falls from Denali Pass (without axes) which belie the routes easy reputation. This route may be the busiest and easiest, but don't let that lull you into a false sense of security. This is a dangerous, cold, stormy mountain, which can avalanche at any time, and whiteout conditions can occur at a moments notice. See the words of GRANITEBOY at the end of this description.
CAMPS--7,200; 7,600; 8,900; 10,900; 12,900 (in bergschrund to avoid wind and avalanches); 14,300; 16,200; 17,200 (most try to summit from here).
WISE WORDS FROM GRANITEBOY--The Wet Butt Route is the very popular walk to the
summit. backpacking with an attitude.
They give out unofficial bragging rights for this one,
If my memory serves me well (and it does).
Pay yer dues B4 you come here,
and SAR techs won't have to die trying to keep you
alive. Pay yer dues. The guide can't save you, The park
can't save you. Only your experience matters.
Sharks patrol these waters.