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Routes : North America : United States : Alaska : Alaskan Range : Denali-Mt. McKinley : Northern Routes : Muldrow Glacier

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Muldrow Glacier -

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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G
ALASKA GRADE 2
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

APPROACH--19 miles from the 2,100 foot Wonder Lake trailhead, cross the McKinley River (sometimes the most dangerous part of the expedition) and continue to the Glacier via Cache Creek and the 5,720 foot McGonagall Pass. Before Wonder Lake Road is plowed free (usually in May), start from Kantishna, 3 miles from the Wonder Lake trailhead.

TOTAL TIME--14-28 days.

VERTICAL GAIN--14,600 feet.

DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Travel and camp with careful attention to hanging glaciers which rim Mounts Tatum, Carpe and Koven. Karsten's Ridge has 30 to 40 degree snow and ice.

CAMPS--Avoid the fecal contaminated McGonagall Pass; also be careful of contamination at the Browne's tower camp (14K); you pretty much hafta camp there, but using iodine is probably a wise idea. 5,700; 6,600; 8,100; 9,600; Karsten's Ridge: 11,000, 12,100; 14,900; 16,800 (most try to summit from here).

WISE WORDS FROM Graniteboy--The Muldrow is THE route on the big mountain if you don't wanna share a camp with 500 other "climbers". A nice 25 mile walk just to get to the glacier starts things off, then you spend a couple weeks tromping up the Muldrow, karsten's ridge, and the upper glacier. Add the full traverse back to Talkeetna instead of sissying out and catching the plane at kahiltna International, and you'll be a big kid.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2007-11-13
Views: 1552
Route ID: 13113

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty F
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: graniteboy on 1996-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mold Route Traverse

We did the Muldrow as part of a range traverse from kantishna to talkeetna, up the muldrow, down the Kahiltna, and across the pika glacier to the granite glacier and then to the tokositna glacier, on foot, ski, and raft. The muldrow is technically easy, but you ain't gonna get heli-flighted out of there if you stub your toe and cry wahh-wahh, like you can on the wet butt route. So pay attention, pay yer dues, and go see the best side of the range. Helpful hint: there's a good campsite at 16,000 or so, over on the right side of the harper glacier, in a little safe spot right up against the base of the north peak. Kind of sheltered, as sheltered as anything up there can be, anyway. PS: the fear mongering about the browne tower camp is silly. All small camps on denali have sanitation issues...including the 17,2 camp on mthe wett butt route. Your job is to be smart enough to bring some Iodine and treat your water as you melt it.

Added: 2007-01-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: bumblie on 1983-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Avoid the crowds. climb on this side of the mountain. We only saw two other parties the whole time.

Added: 1983-07-06