APPROACH--23 miles from the 2,100 foot Wonder Lake trailhead, cross the McKinley River (sometimes the most dangerous part of the expedition) and Cache Creek to McGonagall Pass, then along the glacier to 6,650 foot Gunsight Pass; or continue 6 miles along the glacier to the Flatiron. Before Wonder Lake Road is plowed free (usually in May), start from Kantishna, 3 miles from the Wonder Lake trailhead.
TOTAL TIME--14-28 days.
VERTICAL GAIN--North Summit: 12,900 feet; South Summit: 13,800 feet.
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Travel and camp with careful attention to hanging glaciers which rim Mounts Tatum, Carpe and Koven. Up to 70 degree snow and ice; Class 5 rock pinnacles on the Gunsight Pass start, which is usually considered an ALASKAN GRADE 5.
CAMPS--Avoid the fecal contaminated McGonagall Pass; 5,700; 8,100; 9,600; 12,500 (ridge above the Flatiron); 15,070; 17,000 (most try to summit from here).