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North Face, ice variation -

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mostly ice screws
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From the Tatina Glacier, start at base of obvious ice face, which makes up a major portion of the N. face. We camped in a large shrund on the runout of that face. The time was early May 1978, when, due to the still cold temps. the face is practically snow free. In the upper third, the route can go left or right (toward Nightwind Spire?). Take the left and reach a short ridge leading E. toward summit. A huge cornice nearly stopped us dead. Eventually we prevailed and traversed to a good rest spot. From there it was something less than a rope length of easy snow travel to the summit in confusing fog. Finding no higher place to go, we had lunch to find the fog lifting and us on a flat summit with a view down to our basecamp on the Tatina Glacier. F/A participants: friend Dick Ellsworth and myself, Pete Sennhauser, now of McCarthy/Kennicott AK

Submitted by: pete_sennhauser on 2006-10-15
Views: 303
Route ID: 80661