APPROACH--4 miles from the 6,500 foot Southwest Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier landing strip to a safe spot at 6,500 feet, AWAY FROM THE FACE!!!
TOTAL TIME--3 to 10 days
VERTICAL GAIN--9,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--Sustained ice climbing of 60 to 70 degrees with short vertical steps; difficult rock climbing (5.7); DANGEROUS ICEFALL CROSSING with exposure to a hanging glacier; sustained ice climbing of 60 to 75 degrees with short vertical steps; steep mixed climbing; sustained exposure to hanging seracs and icefall.
CAMPS--8,000 (base); 10,200 (snowcave beneath a rock buttress); 12,000 (snow ridge); 14,000.