APPROACH--25 miles from the 2,400 foot floatplane lake (west of the park boundary), up Somber Creek, then up the Herron Glacier to a 3,800 foot side valley; follow it over a 6,300 foot pass, which leads to the Foraker Glacier.
TOTAL TIME--21 to 30 days
VERTICAL GAIN--11,000 feet
DIFFICULTIES & DANGERS--The average angle of the climb is about 35 degrees; the bottom of the route has a 30 foot section of near vertical ice and the crux is a knife-edge at 9,000 to 10,000 feet. CAUTION: The slopes above 11,000 feet are prone to avalanches after a snowatorm!
CAMPS--8,300; 10,000; 11,800 (basin).